Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Get those 3K Burst discs off your 1800 psi service rated CO2 tanks.


The 3K Walking Dead

It has become painfully obvious that I need to include a section on CO2 burst protection. Though the subject matter may be a little dry, the amount of inaccurate and sometimes dangerous misinformation is at this writing is more prevalent than the real information. Some of the misinformation has been around since the advent of paintball but the most dangerous information was born with the introduction of HPA. Those who have followed my postings will know that I am no fan of HPA because of it's inherent dangers magnified with the adverse nature of atrophy. Now that part of the paintball industry has created a serious new threat to the CO2 users. The threat I am referring to is the use of 3K burst discs on 1800 rated CO2 paintball tanks. This is not a malicious action by HPA proponents but the assortment of burst discs introduced have allowed bad decisions to take place. Tanks left in the sun pop the disc. Solution? Add a higher rated disc, we have them in stock. Wrong. But obviously this was the choice made and it seemed to work so well in has become standard. The problem is the vacuum of data that is available on pressurized vessel protection and it is this continued lack of information that has sustained dangerous practices.
In the paintball industry the pressures associated with the working mechanics of CO2 are considered high pressure. In the Gas industry CO2 is regarded as a low pressure gas. We need to understand that there are two industries involved on this topic and definitions are NOT transferable but often confused. The pressure level in the gas industry refers to the natural pressures of contained gas, The pressure level in the paint-ball industry refers to the final operating pressures of the marker itself. Most of the information we now have on paintball comes from the marketing industry, conversely the information in the gas industry is based on manufacturing and handling safety standards and hard science.
A common sense that something is seriously wrong came when I looked into the topic of volumetric testing or as the paint-ball industry calls it, Tank re-certification. Specifically important is the fact that tanks are tested in the following manner, The valve is removed, The tank is placed in a reinforced vat containing water. The Tank to be tested is filled with water and hydraulically pressurized to the to a specified pressure. Tank distortions are measured and if the tank survives the test, the tanks recovery dimensions are checked. All measurements are then compared with industry accepted standards and the tank is passed or failed. Hydraulic pressurization is used for safety reasons. Water cannot be compressed so that the static pressure has little stored energy should a catastrophic failure occur. Furthermore, the test is under water in a sturdy tank to protect testers from tank fragmentation on catastrophic tank failure. The hydro-test pressure for CO2 tanks is 5/3 the tanks stamped operating pressure. For a tank stamped 1800 this would be 3K or 3000 psi. Now on the flip side. Pneumatics have a high level of stored energy which on catastrophic tank failure is violently released adding substantial force to fragmentation. For this reason testing pneumatically is strictly forbidden in even when the tank is in a protective enclosure buffered with water. Now consider that if you have a 3K burst disc that is designed to burst at between (-)10 or (-)20% up the the listed burst pressure, You are potentially stress testing your tank with pneumatic pressure right next to your face. I hope that you can see the problem here. A safety device means just what it implies, Safety. How can a device that allows a tank to pressurize to levels used in stress testing, using a method (pneumatic) that is specifically forbidden for safety reasons be called a safety device. Plainly, it can't. The 5/3 burst disc safety standard is a sham. Unfortunately nobody questioned the practice and it has found its way to be the norm so now most paint-ball vendors push the 3K disc for your 1800 rated CO2 tanks. Being the norm does not make it right, or safe. Greatly adding to this confusion is a lack of uniformity in the identification of burst discs. Some list the tanks service pressure and some list the burst pressure. At no point should you use a disc from an unknown manufacturer or a manufacturer that will not release burst specs. If you are using a 1800 service rated tank then 3K should never be used in any case. At best your tank is exposed to 3000 psi which is hydrotesting pressure, at worst if the 3K is actually working pressure, your tank is exposed to between 3750 psi to 4285psi which will most likely burst the tank first resulting in severe injury or death.
The burst discs in the HPA market are designed for HPA regulators, not CO2 tanks. They are 1.8K, 3K, 5K, and 7.5K. Whether this is a service rating or a burst rating is never defined in writing. Stay away unless you treat them as service ratings. The worst case then is that a 1.8K unified disk could burst as low as 1440 psi if it's actually a lower quality burst rated disc. It is better to burst low than burst a tank.
So what is the correct burst disc for your tank? We need to go back to basics and look at the industrial standards on pressured vessel protection. The key information that we have is the tank stamp of 1800. This is the standard service pressure on the tank. This means that the tank is designed to handle this pressure regularly and repeatedly throughout its life. This implies a cap pressure to keep within the 1800 service guidelines. Like fuses in electronics there are different types of burst protections and their values vary a bit for the service level they are protecting. The protection we are using is usually a variation of the Sherwood burst protection 3/8-28 three hole vented plug over a flat disc sealed with a nylon washer now being replaced with a unified unit consisting of disc and vent plug. These fall under the flat disc style of protection for pressurized vessels. The sizing on this type of protection shows a maximum recommended operation ratio of 70% to 80% of the rupture discs marked burst pressure. This indicates that the proper disc protection falls between 2250 and 2571 PSI for a tank with a service rating of 1800. On removing the vent bolt on my vintage 20 oz luxfer cylinders Tippmann tank with original disc, I found a copper disc with M16 printed on it. 16 Mpa(Megapascals) is equal to 2320.6 PSI and this falls within required specs.
The absolute answer for what size burst disc to get for your tank stamped 1800 is 2250 psi being ideal and the absolute max being 2571 psi. Anything higher allows the tank to operate outside of the 1800 service rating and will shorten the life of the tank or could cause a catastrophic failure during use. Burst discs are currently designed to burst at -10%(high grade) or -20%(low grade) to +0% so a correct 2250 burst disc will burst at between 1980 psi (high grade) or 1760 psi (low grade) up to the maximum of 2250 psi, properly protecting an 1800 rated tank. Given the the choice I personally prefer the stand alone disc over the unified system. Manufacturers make the unified discs to the buyers specs so if a buyer wants unit marked 1.8 but use a 3k disc, that is how they are made. The customer cannot know unless they can see the markings on the disc itself and understand the code, which is not always possible. I have seen unified burst discs externally stamped 1.8 but the disc in the back was marked 18 on some and 30 on others. The only way to be certain you have the correct protection is when the disc comes with actual burst pressure documentation. This should also list the parameters as to be the(-)20% or the(-)10% accuracy.
I would like to add at this point that a tank should not be modified structurally. This weakens the tank and it must be condemned. This includes material removal such as machining, sanding, or polishing. It should also not be exposed to chemical alteration such as with acid washing for re-anodizing. Damage or high heat exposure also warrant that the tank be condemned. Contact the tank manufacturer for the specifics in these areas.
So what about the other CO2 tanks stamped with higher service ratings? Below is a list of CO2 tanks with proper protection. At no time should protection match or exceed its hydro-test pressure which is also listed.
A CO2 tank with a stamped 1800 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 2250 psi best to 2571 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 3000 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

A CO2 tank with a stamped 2266 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 3000 psi best to 3237 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 3777 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

A CO2 tank with a stamped 3000 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 3750 psi best to 4286 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 5000 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

Remember that the stamped number on the burst disc could be either the tank service rating or actual burst rating. Only manufacturer specs can tell you which, if you can find them. Treat all unknowns as tank service ratings. Following a tanks service rating give you the full life of the tank. Placing a larger disc allows a tank to operate at a higher service rating than designed weakening the walls and potentially causing failure during operation. My solution to tank protection on hot days back then was laying a wet towel over the tank between games. Currently, I won't carry a spare tank on my back without first wrapping it it a damp Frog Tog and my burst disc are all within industrial service ratings.

                                                                                                                                                       SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"

Blog Reference page number 11
Title - Get those 3K Burst discs off your 1800 psi service rated CO2  tanks or The 3K Walking Dead
Revised - 05/21/2017


Wednesday, April 3, 2013

68 Special Owners Manual

The Model 68-Special Operator's Manual

Sorry for the scan quality. I will post cleaner copies when I figure out the editor. If an image shows blank then try reloading this page. There are a few .pdf copies available on the web if you search. I am reluctant to link at this time due to issues I have with some of the other data posted on the sites. Maybe after I finished my blog and calmed down.










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I am currently gathering together relevant CO2 technical documents to show the actual physics involved with this marker. The actual formula calculations will not be possible due to environmental and marker variables, but the concepts can be clarified. As of now I have not found a single web site that doesn't use "Dry CO2" data when referring to the operation of the 68 Special. I have even found a few that make me say WTF?  It's obvious they have only used HPA electronic markers. 

        I don't like to be a cynic but we'll see how popular HPA becomes when atrophy begins showing itself on aging HPA systems. Considering that an old tire over inflated to 70 psi can kill you. Imagine the fun to be had with 3 to 4.5 thousand psi. Darwin awards are in the works for the ones that say " Get the compressor, Let's see if it still works!"

Ok, I vented, I feel much better now....


                                                                                                                                                         SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 05
Title - The Model 68-Special Operator's Manual
Revised - 08/22/13

Monday, April 1, 2013

68 Special: Out of the box Specifications

Tippmann Pneumatics 68 SPECIAL
Top half are the accessories that were available at the time: Stock Tippmann 20oz Siphon tank with generic buttstock, 100 Rnd Viewloader hopper (the biggest the store had but its expandable), Stock Tippmann Sniper Barrel, generic hopper adapter (painted pipe fitting). Shown in the lower half of the box is what you got. Owners manual, patch, spare O-rings, The 68 SPECIAL, 40 Rnd hopper, 7oz siphon tank, squeegee, sling and filler adapter with rubber washer. The marker with no accessories was purchased new in 1991 for $369.00+tax. This was their display marker, the 68 Specials were back-ordered with no scheduled delivery date. I can't remember what the accessories cost, they were purchased later. In those days stock Tippmann parts were expensive.
I have seen a number of recent 68 Special sales, all claiming to be in excellent condition, complete and original straight from the box. Most were actually in poor condition and damaged with ill fitted mods, as well as having non-Tippmann or missing original parts. I am posting this to show what really came in the box. Sorry, It's NOT FOR SALE, so please don't ask.
This is from the manual. Compare this to the ridiculous number of parts in modern markers. The earliest 68-Special design is shown on this diagram. Receiver tube is SMG-60 without the safety, the receiver is not yet milled for the valve retainer spacer which is not shown. Valve has not been milled for the valve retainer spacer.  Trigger is SMG-60 Gen2. Power tube is of first run design.. There is a roll pin under valve from SMG-60 Gen2 on this model. I have rendered from this diagram an accurate exploded view and parts list of the last model that I will upload at a later date.

Specifications of the Tippmann 68 SPECIAL

Caliber:........................................................................................................68
Power:.................................................................CO2 (7 oz. siphon cylinder)
Mag. Capacity...........................................................................................50+
CO2 Capacity..............................................................225 shots per cylinder
Cycle Rate:......................................................................................300 RPM
Standard Barrel Length.............................................................................11"
Length-Overall:..........................................................................................32"
Weight:....................................................................................................4.8 lb.
Effective Range:..................................................................................150+ ft.
Action:..........................................................Semi-auto (open bolt blow-back)
Tippmann Stock SNIPER Barrel Length...................................................16"

One thing to consider along with the roundness quality when selecting paint is the paint ball diameter size and size consistency. The 68 cal paintballs vary in size depending on the manufacturers or brands. They can range from .684" to .694". Modern paintball markers favor the smaller size. These can result in lower velocities, poor accuracy, and breakage issues in the 68 Special. The optimum size for consistent velocity and accuracy is .692". Charts are available on the net to check the nominal sizes of the brands your field carries for the best selection.

Due to the nature of the liquid CO2 "Wet System" , After the tank is installed and before paintballs are added at the chronograph station. The marker should be pointed upward and rapidly fired three to four times to "wet the system" (remove all gas from the lines and valve). This puts the marker at its maximum velocity for chronograph purposes. [Note that doing this with a dry CO2 marker will temporarily lower the velocity, a primary difference in the two systems.] Most likely your field will not be familiar with wet systems and rather than argue the fact chronograph the first seven shots, the last three being your velocity. Been there. done that.
     To save on tank seals when removing a still charged tank. Unscrew the tank 3/4 turn, invert marker to dump balls from feedneck back to hopper and fire marker in a safe direction. It will fire three to four times with remaining CO2 in the receiver  The bolt will remain closed when empty. The tank can then be removed without the hiss and O-ring damage. Lube the o-ring for longer life.

I am posting on this site the only two Technical Information Letters from Tippmann that I have found so far, TIL-SMGSPG and TIL-GENORID. These Refer to all early Tippmann markers but contain extremely useful information on the 68 Special's main spring and O-rings. I wish I had these when I bought my marker, I probably didn't need to replace the valve seats, only the o-rings. If anyone is aware of the location of the following TILs, Please direct me to them in comments so I can get and post them. The needed TILs are:
TIL-GENVEL

TIL-SMGCLN
TIL-SMGOIL
TIL-SMGSEAL

TIL-SPCVEA   < This one is of great interest as it may supply extremely useful information on the 68 Specials velocity adjustment system.The others may have useful references.

I copied my owners manual and will soon be posting it after I crop and size the scans.


                                                                                                                                         SML


Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 03
Title - 68 Special: Out of the box Specifications
Revised - 08/22/13

Sunday, March 31, 2013

The Serendipitous Paintball Marker

My 68 Special with Tippmanns stock 16 inch sniper barrel, 20oz tank, 100 round Viewloader vl-90v2 loader, Palmers SHER085 muzzle brake, Tyler #3 trigger shoe, generic buttstock and padded rifle sling. Missing in this picture is the Aimpoint 5000 2X red dot scope with grooved receiver mounts. When fully loaded, it is heavy.  It's length is almost the width of the car. The best 1992 Woodsball Marker. 

The Model 68 Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc.
The Serendipitous Paintball Marker

     I am writing this due to the lack of available information on what I consider one of the best and unique paintball markers ever made. The Tippmann 68 Special was a marker ahead of its time and then abruptly abandoned. My goal is to try to fill in the gaps and clear up misunderstandings about the Wet CO2 system markers compared to standard Dry CO2 system markers, Something that I wish Tippmann had done. Had they tried, they might have realized what they had and what could have been done with it. I also hope that the information I can provide will increase interest in and help to return the 68 Special to the field of play. Look out Mil Sims, Old school is pushing back. So here is my blog of what I discovered was the Serendipitous Paint Marker, the 68 SPECIAL. Enjoy.

An advertisement for the 68 Special in paintball magazines

Though very reliable and durable in the field, the 68 Special had two Achilles heals.
The first was a production issue. The 68 Specials started by hand assembling from chopped pre-made SMG 68 frames and toolings. These were hand fitted to a chopped SL-68 style feed and barrel system. This meant that the markers had slight variations and did not have easy interchangeability where it was most critical for the evolution of the marker to take place. Even when the markers were being hand greensand cast dedicated for the 68-Special, it still restrained the much of the cut and fit construction of the original. SMG 60 conversions had more delicate frames and the receiver could not stand up to the increased forces generated by the use of liquid CO2. Some cracked at the setscrew on the receiver tube support. Others just cracked at the forward bolt hole locations that remained after the conversion. The pinch was made exclusively for the SL-68's 40 rnd hopper, Not the standard hoppers that were on the market. The pinch would break if someone attempted to force a fit.
The second was that much of the material it was made of rusted. Most of the markers of the time were aluminum, brass, and/or plastic. After a game it was typical to rinse and hang the markers to dry. Soap that washed off the oil based paint also washed off the protective oil coat on the Tippmanns. This was also true of its SMG predecessors. That is the main reason functioning markers are getting harder to find. You will notice the brown receiver sleeves and hammers on most markers that come up for sale, rust damage. I fortunately owned real weapons and was used to detail cleaning and oiling, so my markers were well regulated [Kept in good working order, if your unfamiliar with the term.] I will be using pictures of them in my discussions. Yes I do have more than one.
The greatest and most unique feature of this Marker was the push into Wet Systems Technology. Most likely accidental while studying a flaw in the SMG series, accidental liquid feed. A feature that was turned from a liability to an asset. A marker that did not suffer the chill effect of rapid fire even while spitting frozen vapor itself. A marker with no regulator yet could maintain safe velocities where others failed and still fail. A marker that could rival HP Air markers decades before they even existed. Then suddenly, abandoned. Never to be raised to reach its full potential, but left to fade out of existence because its parent chose to dote over a less perplexing child, the SL.

I have since determined that despite being the greatest feature, liquid feed was also THE death knell for the 68 Special. Tippmann's failure to change the design on the Siphon tank valve allowed the siphon tanks to be used on non-siphon markers. This became more painfully obvious when they were being used with factory SMG-60s. The SMG-60 was only COMPATIBLE AFTER the mainspring was clipped, a fact never listed in any manual. Its use on other markers proved more disastrous. The liability was high. Rather then draw attention to the issue, the 68 line was quietly dropped and all replacement parts sold off. At the time of this writing, Tippmann still does not have copies of the owners manual for the 60's or 68's on its web site. You will also find no mention of siphon tanks.

The New Beginning
       If you plan to acquire a 68 SPECIAL for play you will need a Full face mask with a soft flexible chin and cheek area that will flex around the tank. The 68 Special shoulder mounts high like a real rifle. Rigid masks will not let you look down the sites. The 1990 masks were smaller and did not have the clearance problem. I use a JT Proteus mask with my markers and it has just enough give to sight in.

1990 field legal mask and a current field legal mask that works with the 68 Specials high shoulder mount. Left is my JT Thermal Spectra goggles. You can't see the plastic ear cups that I purchased after seeing an earshot drop a player. On the right is a JT Proteus. When tried to play again they disallowed my first mask and all they had in the shop was an insanely expensive Proteus. I wanted to play so I bought it. After all that, I found that they only gassed the tanks for one game play. No liquid CO2 so I couldn't play anyway. The silver lining was that the Proteus lays right into the 68 Special for comfortable sighting in.

An introduction to my 68 Specials
     My initial experience with the marker was not a good one, but getting an understanding and taking corrective action changed that experience from bad to great, making it my preferred marker of choice. I started paintball in about 1990 using a Splatmaster Rapide. This was at the request of a coworker who was invited to a between radio stations challenge and was requested to bring friends. I never played paintball before and somewhat reluctant, purchased a new marker and gear. The game went well and I was hooked. I eventually modded the marker with Gator and other parts and played regularly.

My first marker. A Splatmaster Rapide with Gator upgrades plus. My favorite tactic was to sprint the flag line on the whistle to flank the enemy before they positioned themselves, then come back and take them out with the 1x  power Red Dot scope. The scope had poly-carbonate shields over the lenses but they have long been lost.

Most of the markers in the field were Nelspots and pumps and I only saw one SMG 60. I was on the receiving end. Hell yes they hurt. I was strafed across the chest at close range. Its owner had so much padding on that my ball had just bounced off without breaking. It was other wise a perfect shot. I learned an absolute and clear lesson then to shoot til they break.
      A few months later my coworker showed me his new prize, a 68 Special. He pleaded for me to get one and we could mop the field. I looked at  the price tag and said pass. He persisted and eventually I went to the shop and purchased the display as the markers were back-ordered with no clear future delivery date. I bought it on August 21st, 1991 for $369.00 plus tax.

This is what came in the box. The display 68 Special for $369.00 plus tax purchased on Aug. 21, 1991. Contained patch, manual, spare o-rings, 68 Special,  40 rnd hopper, 7 oz siphon tank with shoulder stock, squeegee, sling, Warranty card (not in picture), and a tank fill coupling with washer. I believe there was a coupon for paintballs that I never used.

I grew to hate this marker as the valve always leaked. I should have contacted Tippmann as I later found that their customer service was pretty good, but at the time they were backed up on orders, the field called and all markers seemed to have one or more issues of some kind. It was a good shooter and replaced my Rapide but I hated the intermittent leak issue. My coworker had to buy every new marker as it came out and quickly got cross with his wife. Three was his limit, no more markers til he sold some old ones. He offered me his 68 special with only months of use, for $150.00. I declined so he threw in all its accessories for the same price. I could use the two extra tanks and one was 20oz, plus I was looking to mod some barrels and so I accepted. I tested his marker in a game for function and loved it. After a thorough cleaning and oiling, I transferred  my accessories and retired my marker. I have been using this marker since. I eventually replaced the valves in my original and it is now just as reliable. After seeing the Tippmann TILs, I suspect  the problem was really the valve O-rings damaged by the store owner when examining the valve system on the display. It's my backup now. My construction job eventually ended and so did the funds for game play. I cleaned everything and packed it away.
      A few years ago, I started playing again but it has been hard to find fields that properly fill tanks. Most were just pressurizing the tank. This gets most markers through a game but it doesn't get the 68 Special through chronograph. Most people now have never heard of a siphon tank or say oh no, you can't use that, it will damage the marker. My local field closed up due to the economy a few years back so I have been benched again. This gave me time to find out why and how my marker was so different from the others. Despite its fame or notoriety depending on who supplies the inconsistent data, Tippmann doesn't even seem to acknowledge that this marker ever existed. They sold all remaining supplies to PB Sports and no longer mention or support it. Any questions that I sent them went unanswered. I was excited with the SL return and then depressed with no mention of the 68 Special. I now found a field in a neighboring state and am once again getting ready to play. The following is supplied for those who have had the good fortune to come into possession of a 68 Special but can't find much about it. Most sites either omit critical information or have it wrong to begin with. Other than sales brochures, documentation is rare and data had to be extrapolated from related markers with known changes taken into consideration. Help with any missing information or error identification will be appreciated.

The Short History of the 68 Special
In 1986, Tippmanns SMG 60 Gen 1 had its strengths but even more faults. It sported an efficient 62 cal ball, available in semi-auto only or select fire(semi and full auto fire depending on trigger pull), tank feed, and 15 fast shot capability. Its faults were that it had no Safety switch, no velocity adjuster (Velocity was adjusted by changing out the mainspring, This was not even stated in the manual. Also most markers at this time had no field adjustment.), 15 round bursts on full auto that threw the expensive clips into the bushes, a system that would spaz on liquid CO2 if fired at downward angles, and a frail gas line on the outside of the receiver. Tippmann then made the SMG 60 Gen 2, the gas line was moved inside, and a set screw behind the trigger could disable the full auto mode, but it still had no mechanical safety (The instructed safe position was lowering the bolt into closed position, striking the bolt handle could still fire the marker.), the liquid CO2 issues remained, had no field velocity adjustment and the 62 caliber ball was becoming increasingly harder to find. In 1987, Tippmanns response was the SMG 68. This is the first of the Wet CO2 markers. It used a siphon tank to intentionally draw and use the liquid CO2 to an advantage (I believe that the valve is the same as in the SMG 60 Gen 2 but the increased force from the previously undesired CO2 liquid feed could fire a 68 cal ball very well. Serendipity?), it still had no mechanical safety, but it was stock SEMI AUTO ONLY (full auto SMGs were being banned at some fields. Some users quickly found that installing a SMG 60 Gen 2 trigger gave this marker full auto capability, the threaded set screw hole for full auto disable was still in the receiver frame and could be used). In 1988, Tippmann released the SL 68. An economical pump that again used "Dry System" CO2 and a 40 round gravity fed hopper. In 1989, The SL 68 was doing well but for the semiautomatics, the velocity control and the lost clips were still issues. Competitor markers began sporting semi auto fire but with simpler gravity fed hoppers. In 1990, Tippmans final Solution was the 68-Special. It still had no mechanical safety, it did have a velocity adjustment screw, it had the siphon tank from the SMG 68 and a 40 round gravity fed hopper (The hopper neck was undersized and adapters had to be used for installing aftermarket hoppers, The necks were also prone to breakage if over tightened or if forced to open wider.). Tippmann then initiated a program to perform a non-reversible upgrade on sent in SMG markers for about a $100.00 fee. Later, the roll pin under the valve was omitted, the valve was milled, and a C spacer was installed to ease valve floating for more consistent velocities. Shortly after that the side notch in the bolt tube gave the marker its first mechanical safety. Now we are at the final version of the 68-Special. The evolved marker designed with on the fly improvements and corrections. This marker was built using the existing factory parts of its various SMG predecessors. It was a veritable paintball Prometheus, taking the best of all its ancestors. Sadly this was also the last model of this innovative series. The 68-Special had two main variations. The release model, which had a roll pin valve retainer under the valve, a power tube with a steel rod insert, and no mechanical safety. The final version which had the grooved valve with a C shaped valve retainer/spacer, a one piece power tube with three holes, and the mechanical safety. Because of the upgrade program and factory service upgrades, 68-Special markers may have on the nameplate SMG 60, SMG 68, or 68-SPECIAL. They may also have the later power tube, valve spacer/retainer, and the safety notch on earlier models. The distinguishing factor for a 68-Special will be the hopper clamp on the right front of the receiver.

WET CO2 Systems (volume) VS DRY CO2 Systems (pressure)
Take everything you were told about paintball markers and trash it. It most likely does not apply to the 68-Special. Other than the early Z series and the Mega Z made by Montneel Designs, no other markers were designed to cycle liquid CO2 in them. It looks to me that this was an accidental system discovered in the SMG 60 liquid CO2 malfunctions. The Montneel markers were initially based on the 68-Special with focus on an improved valve design and on upgradability. These, the SMG 68s and the 68-Specials are referred to as "WET CO2" systems and they actually use a different physics than "DRY CO2" system markers.
Dry markers use the CO2 in gas form to fill a firing chamber. A pressure regulator limits the gas entering the chamber to a fixed pressure that on sudden opening, the escaping gas pushes the ball to its velocity. As the ball travels down the barrel, the pressure drops as the gas was already expanded in the expansion and firing chambers prior to release. This is why barrel length has limited effectiveness of about 14 inches. The upside is that you can reduce velocity and save gas. The downside is temperature sensitivity. The system cools on consecutive firing. On rapid fire, the pressure can drop to less than the regulated pressure and ball velocity suffers. Also tipping the marker to allow liquid CO2 to enter the system can cause dangerous pressures and damage the marker as well as exceed safe shooting velocities.
Wet markers run liquid CO2 directly to the valve with NO regulator and NO expansion chamber. The valve size and the force of the hammer strike pushes out a FIXED volume of CO2 liquid that expands rapidly outside the valve and in the power tube. The set screw on the side of the power tube uses turbulence to cause back pressure, this higher pressure slows the conversion of liquid to gas. After that, the liquid to gas conversion pushes the ball with increasing pressure unlike the dry system that releases all pressure at once. With a wet system the tighter the ball seal and the longer the barrel, the higher the exit speed. Longer barrels DO get higher velocities on wet systems. The limit is when the forward bolt pulls back far enough to release barrel pressure. Keep in mind that you're still limited by field velocities. 270 is 270 whether pushed violently at once (dry) or through rapid acceleration (wet). The good side is that with a wet system, you are at maximum velocity. If Gas CO2 should enter the system then the velocity will lower and not get dangerous like liquid CO2 in dry systems. There is substantial confusion about this because of velocity bursts of the SMG 60s when tipped forward and liquid enters the valve. (There was no anti-siphon device in Tippmann tanks, in fact Tippmann still does not recommend them.) SMG 60s were NOT siphon markers, They were designed as dry systems with no regulators and the tank itself being the expansion chamber. More confusion comes from POST SMG parts lists that list Siphon Tanks as an option. I have found no manuals exclusively for the SMG 68 and all evidence shows that a SMG 60 manual was sent with new SMG 68 markers. The siphon option was only intended for the 68 Cal and standard tanks for the 62 Cal but that fact was never clarified. This has resulted in all types of absurd comments on 68 Special velocities and quirks, all rumors. Rumors repeated so often that they are now regularly confused with fact. The wet system is SAFER than dry systems. The only downside is that the amount of CO2 used in shooting is much higher.
The simple fact to remember is that wet systems work on volume and dry systems work on pressure. Liquid cannot be compressed, a chamber of a fixed size holds liquid at a fixed volume. If some of the liquid turns to gas, then the volume is actually reduced. This is not true with gas, where a chamber of a fixed size can hold different volumes of gas at different pressures and are greatly affected by temperature changes. If the marker is chronographed after the system is properly wetted, three rapid shots with barrel up, then the maximum velocity is shown. Any gas entering the system or forming in the system on a hot day does not increase the velocity. Wet systems use the rate of expansion, liquid to gas, not the expanded gas pressure to push the ball. The small valve area can only release a small quantity. The more expanded gas in the valve, the less liquid there is, the less liquid there is, the less there is to convert to gas on release and therefore the less there is to push the ball with resulting in lowered velocity. All expanded gas in the valve critically lowers velocity and does not push the hammer sufficiently to catch. The wet system IS safer. Using the liquid to gas conversion is also why a wet system can be effectively used in cold snow covered areas where ""Dry" CO2 pressure systems fail to perform well. It also allows rapid-fire WITHOUT a significant drop in velocity. A real kickbutt feature before the use of HP air.
If you have ever seen a 68-Special in action. You probably saw the result of just gas in a wet system when the liquid runs out, there is not enough force to blow back the hammer to catch on the sear and the marker machine-guns chopping up balls with a loud BBBBBBBBBRRRRRRRAAP. Back then, we called those Tippmann gun farts. The barrel then required cleaning and a rush was certain. If you didn't have buddies or a back up piece, you were usually screwed. The main reason I went to a 20 oz tank. Tip: If your 68 Special starts to Machine-gun, tip it upside down and change the tank as fast as you can. Turning it over stops the ball chop and clears some debris from the barrel during the machine-gun. After tank change, right the marker, and Re-cock. It will fire some unbroken balls. The accuracy will not be there but you can take out the rushers giving you time to safely sqeegee your barrel. The MYTH about tipping the 68 Special marker certain ways and getting higher velocity has been one of the most aggravating issues that I've had to deal with in the field, even in the 90s..

On a side Note

Can you convert the 68 Special to HP air? Sorry, no. The valve capacity is too small and the feed line from the tank is a spring encased 1/16" plastic tube. It is too small to allow adequate air flow. It will overheat and/or rupture before adequate pressure can be reached for the valve size during rapid-fire. The valve seats are also not designed for the required HP pressures. On impact the valve is designed to release liquid CO2 on both sides. The valve is free-floating so roughly an equal release is on both sides. One side drives the ball and the other drives the hammer back to catch the sear. Besides not having any expansion chamber or internal regulator, The hammer itself weighs 275 grams or 9.7 ounces. That's more then a half pound cycling on each shot. The gas would have to overcome the inertia of the hammer as well as being able to reset the mainspring, furthermore it would have to propel the ball to proper velocity. Without a complete redesign of the whole system, satisfactory HP air is not possible. Most of the blown lines I have read about were during a test cycling of CO2 gas or compressed air and not the proper liquid CO2 as required.

On my future posts I will be supplying some tear down pictures for those repairing or restoring their markers. Debunking 68 Special Myths. Tippmann siphon tank innards and hopefully how to build them. I would also like to review velocity issues and supply some videos. If all goes well I will eventually supply details on a major mod on my third 68 special. [TOP SECRET ]


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Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 01
Title - The Serendipitous Paintball Marker
Revised - 05/24/2017