Marker Variation Identification

 So you have a 68-Special but it does not match the Tippmann official parts list. In addition to the manufactured versions, there are many conversions modified by Tippmann as upgrades as well as improvements made over time. Any marker serviced was upgraded to the current version of the time so it is not possible to determine age outside of the 68-Special serial number. Unfortunately, no serial number to date data exists. This may not be complete, but includes all variations that I am currently aware of.

                                                                                                                                                      SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number ##
Title - Marker Variation Identification
Revised - 07/16/22

This is the personal Blog Timeline

Other than the initial introduction which will remain unchanged, this page will act as a form of diary to record events, goals, and changes to remind me where I am at and what I must yet achieve.

Last Update 08/06/22 

04/07/13     Last revised 10/18/14    Played a few games

         It was a two hour drive one way but it was worth it. First time in about three years and about the seventh time in 20 years. Had on all the gear that I bought in the last three years while not being able to play and the field owner referred to me as scary. Big grin, on my part. Had some equipment failures and not all marker related. I will be buying a scale and marking the empty weight on the tanks. They don't chill the tanks so the actual quantity in the tank varied resulting in surprise run outs. I will probably build an insulated loading sleeve and venting tool to empty the tank just prior to the fill. I believe there is still sufficient gas in the tank to chill when the marker quits. Or better yet limit the tank to two hopper runs then chill if that fails. The markers were a little inconsistent this time but I believe that was due to o-ring failure. All my urethane o-rings, both in the markers and all the unused replacements had embrittled, every one of them literally falling apart as I touched them. The Bunas were not sealing well either, showing cracking. I am surprised with such massive failure of all o-rings that the marker performed at all. This was in both markers. I have now found that o-rings have a shelf life. Urethane rings have 5 years and Bunas have 15 years. Mine are all over 22 years old. New o-rings will be installed before next play. Also the stock sling kept slipping out of the buckles. I forgot that is why I installed a standard rifle sling. The sling is nice with the sniper barrel for rear guard positions but cumbersome on the short barrel for forward positions. Cotton webbing and better buckles are in the works. On the downside I found that the last time I had played, a small amount of paint had gotten under the back edge of the bolt tube. I thought the maker had completed the games that day without any paint on the outside so I had just oiled it. First and LAST time, I do that. I will post pictures of the damaged one session did to the marker with an improper cleaning. After the first 68-Special fouled badly I switched to the other. Just two games earn a blister on the trigger finger. I had also forgotten the first heavy fire game I was in when the marker was new. The sharp stock trigger edges made my finger bleed. Another reason I got the second marker in such great condition. I will be buying another trigger shoe. My first was a Tyler #3 aluminum, Black. Some players also filed the trigger so if the trigger is smooth on yours, then the contour has changed and you will have to take it in for actual fitting.  I strongly recommend a shoe over filing, the shoe is three times as wide as the trigger and makes the marker a pleasant shooter.
        I plan to post a torn down image with every part identified by its common name and size to allow you to replace the parts like springs, screws and fittings. I will even try to list sources if possible. I will supply a list of required tools as well. Finally I will make a video of the reassembly of a torn down marker with tips or recommendations at appropriate locations. Well that's it for now, have to order o-rings.
UPDATE
      On preparing to order o-rings, I have found that critical information is missing from the TIL. It specifies the size for identification not for replacement. There is no reference to the hardness of the o-rings. On crosschecking I have found this to be typical of all Tippmann markers. Furthermore current markers don't even list size, only part numbers. There is no way to tell if an aftermarket distributor is even supplying you with the correct parts. Unfortunately o-rings change properties as they age so testing old rings is out of the question. A little detective work is now in order.
UPDATE 04/14/13
       On a side note, Of the five 68 Special parts I ordered from PB Sports, two do not fit, but one could be filed to fit. One looks a little different but works. The other two look right but were purchased as spares so I have not tried to use them. I will post pictures of the parts and show the problems. This severely limits available parts so I will find alternate solutions and post them. I completed the accurate exploded view but have not yet numbered the parts. I am extremely pleased with the image quality but it required so many steps that I am not sure I can retrace my steps to clean up the rest of the manuals pages. I am toying with the idea of making a new up-to-date manual to include things that should have been but were not in the original. With the slow tracking down of marker data I am starting an index blog page 00 to identify updated pages and when last updated. Notes like these will be on that page under Progress Status. This should help reduce repetitive data as well. 
UPDATE 08/17/13
Just went to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tippmann and found the same screwed up data on the SMG and 68-Special. This has motivated me to continue adding to my blog. As of yet I have not repaired the markers due to funding limitations. I have recontacted Tippmann in regards to the missing TIL's and if that fails, I will try to contact Tippmann Sr. I may sign up on wiki to try and correct the data but the lack of required reference material may hinder that. Exactly why I have created this blog in the first place.

08/22/13     Last revised 09/18/13    JUST MOVED

This Blog is temporarily on hold, Too much going on. I will continue when events and time allows.
I have moved this blog to an easier address to find. I received my parts from Baccipaintball and am extremely happy. Forgot to order one item though but will get at a later date. Took pictures and will be posting soon. I am also working on the myths and facts page and also the what to watch when buying a 68-special. This will include MODs both good and bad. I never MODed my markers so this will be a research project.

Do to the volume of information exceeding expectations I am finding it necessary to update and consolidate information on existing pages to avoid repetition. I am also finding it necessary to include data on all versions on the 68-Special as well as some information on the SMG-68 and SMG-60 markers. The information will be limited in scope but be included to clarify and explain many of the misconceptions that cloud the 68-Special. The myths and facts page will be a FAQ. I will most likely add a dedicated update page to assist those returning to find the newer data.

Update: I have been planning to repair and MOD a 68 Special that I purchased for parts in the early 90's for $25.00. It is a SMG-68 to 68 Special factory converted marker. It held pressure but has many missing or badly damaged parts that were not available til now. I have just purchased the remaining key parts from http://www.baccipaintball.com/ and have decided to go ahead with my non-reversible MOD. This forces me to detail measure some parts so factory dimensional specs should be uploaded soon. If my MOD works as planned, expect the value of working 68 Specials to rise. A detailed tutorial will be posted here on success.
I also found 4 unused springs in my supplies from the 90's so I have something to compare when sourcing new springs. I am ordering O-rings and bolts from my listed sources to validate accuracy of specs. I can then list a complete kit list for easy ordering. The forward bolt O-ring hardness has been a concern so I am getting both Duro 70 and 90 to compare. I have a concern over tightness and bolt arm breakage. The 70 may be better. Tests pending.
I recently joined http://www.mcarterbrown.com/ for forum access and though there is still plenty of confusion regarding the 68 Special, the pics and discussions have supplied substantial data on the evolution of the marker. It will take time to sketch the pictures that I could not get permission to use here (users unreachable, old pictures). I also need to find clear pictures of the removed valve for the SMG-60 with external line to validate suspicions that a particular mod may damage or ruin a marker. On a downside, It has been brought to my attention that the average diameter of paint-balls is still getting smaller. This is not good news for the 68 Special. Barrel replacement may soon be necessary so conversion options will be listed here as I find them.
I was not able to order the bolts and o-rings yet due to a catastrophic failure on my computer. Funds had to be used toward a Nexus 7 until I can get another computer.I am currently using the Nexus 7. Received the parts for my upgrade except for O-rings and bolts. Now I need to adapt them to fit the 68-Special. One of the parts came damaged but it should not be an issue. I will cautiously order from ANSGEAR.com if I buy from them again. Details and pictures later. Surprisingly there are a lot of similarities between the 68-Special and 98 Custom receivers. Enough to convert my forward receiver to match the 98 in both barrels attachment and feeder options. I purchased a broken receiver for $4.00 to test my suspicions. The actual 68's receiver is in great shape so it would be a shame to mess it up in the unlikely event that the conversion failed. I have also been watching a SMG-60 to SMG-68 conversion project on mcarterbrown. I believe it is a step in the wrong direction as the outcome has all the issues that plagued the original plus one, but it gives me ideas on a 68-Special MOD for clip fed First Strike rounds. Note that it has been stated that the SMG-60 frame makes a thin walled SMG-68 but the SMG-60 gen 2 can be safely converted to a 68-Special. Clip fed MODs from this would be successful.

I see that the blogger site is splitting my blog so be sure to see the first blog on page 1. I have not yet figured out how to reverse the display order but I know it is possible. You are seeing last to first.
Update: The catastrophic failure of my computer turned out to be deliberate. A shredder program got past the firewall and did massive damage. Coupled with the fact that the last backup failed, all of my collected data on the 68-Special has been lost. That includes all the blog pages in progress. The computer is down until I remove the ghosts and establish program integrity again. This may be a while.
Update: Computer has been repaired but data confirmed lost. Just bought a camera to help in photos and videos. Its an older model but the price was good. Its a Nikon 203s. Also just bought another 68 Special. It has rust damage but surprisingly very little wear. I will probably use it for a teardown video when I have more time to work on it. Cost less then what I have spent repairing the parts marker I'm working on. The marker turned out to be an earlier version without the C-ring spacer or safety slot on the receiver. Taking pictures to set up my next blog. Should finally be able to order my O-rings and bolts. Installed the O-rings from PBsports onto my regular marker. Most of the o-rings fell apart on removal.Sorry, no pictures, done at the field. The marker chrono-ed at almost 350 fps on the old spring and settings. Even when new, the maximum velocity never exceeded 290 with velocity screw full open. First time that the velocity screw had to be most of the way in. Only broke one ball through a full day of play. I will photograph the change on the next marker as the age of the o-rings are the same.


10/05/14 Last revised 09/06/15 STARTING AGAIN
Currently working on a number of pages but updating and organizing are taking too much time. I am temporarily pulling some of the pages for ease in rework as traffic is very light. If you need some data that was previously listed or have a question regarding 68 Specials, leave a comment or email. At this time I am actively working on a PDF 68-Special Owners/Service manual. I will be changing some of the part names to conform to a more standardized nomenclature and function. This is necessary to avoid confusion in the troubleshooting section as original IDs are misleading. There is still a lot of information to gather on the conversions. I will probably have a section on the SMGs as the information must be researched to try and cover all varients of the 68-Special. If you are looking for the 68-Special accurate parts list and the detailed diagram that is still ghosting on browser Images, you have come to the right place, Email to my blog name at gmail.com. I am working to update current sources and updating this blog has become cumbersome and I find the reverse order viewing very annoying...

Regarding my parts orders for restoring a parts marker, I found my pictures on the parts orders so I can post them now. Orders were from pbsports and bacci in that order. I am noting this as some of the parts obviously are not for the 68-Special though they were sold as such.


These are the parts ordered from www.pbsports.com
Tippmann 68 Special Oring Kit, Tippmann 68 Special Bolt Spring Rod, Tippmann 68 Special Main Spring, Tippmann 68 Special Valve Spacer, Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit.


The Following issues should be noted:
PBSports Tippmann 68 Special Bolt Spring Rod Left, Actual 68-Special Spring Rod Right.
The PBSports rod was snug on the spring, it would need a little sanding and polishing for smooth operation.





PBSports Main spring on bottom, A well used Tippmann 68 Special main spring in middle. 4 new old stock I found in my parts box. I believe PBSports main spring is for the 98 Custom, it's way too short for a 68-Special. It cannot be made to work. Update: I ordered a set of springs minus the trigger spring. All springs including the new mainspring were for the 68-Special.


PBSports Oring kit had the correct Orings but look at the color of the Milky Urethane rings. The rings should be frosty white, the yellower they are the older. Urethane Orings have a 5 year life span. These will be lucky to see a year in service. The distorted ring is round, It's just not flat. These were functional and I had to use them in the field after catastrophic ring failure in my main and backup markers. Ordered new rings from theoringstore.com.

PBSports Valve Spacer on left was thinner than a Stock unit and it was too small to fit any of my valves. It also had a slight concave surface. Three 68-Specials tested. Bought another C-ring from baccipaintball.com.




PBSports Gas line kit looks good. Have not tried it as all my markers are currently good. Of the parts ordered, this is the only one I can recommend. May be getting more of these for future.


On the Flip Side, The following were ordered from baccipaintball.com. and all parts worked perfectly. Note that most are used parts and carefull reading of the description is necessary. I highly recommend ordering from Bacci Paintball.


04/08/16 Last revised 04/17/16 New updates coming soon including my special project mod

New updates coming soon including my special project mod. I have updated the parts list to include all variants of the 68-Special so now the conversions can be Identified. All will be posted shortly.

Sorry all, shortly got sidebarred by life. Finally pulled apart my 20 oz siphon tank and great joy, parts are readily available to make quality siphon tanks like the originals. I will be buying the parts and documenting the build and sources of fresh brand new siphon tanks just like the originals. I also upgraded the parts diagram to show All versions of the 68-Special. Downside is that I have been also sidetracked as I came into an ICD Puma that is a Dream Marker as to all the features I ever wanted in a marker. First time ever, side tracked from the wonderful 68-Special. This even exceeds the Montneel Mega Z that has been a wishful gotta have for over a decade. The 1994 ICD Puma sips siphon like a Lady,  is a tack driver, and whisper quiet in the woods. Even WOW can't describe it. It is simpler and has even fewer parts than the 68-Special. Only my project 68 can tip the scale back against this pearl. Update coming in about a week.

5/21/2017
Wow that was a long week. A local field tried to open but has just closed. Was pulling my markers out and testing them to find that they all need rebuilding except the 68-Specials. The Puma vented my tank and I had to recharge it. I forgot the the Puma was set for 12grams and had to be reset for siphon. So it is working as well. The TPX and the 98 Customs are down for the count. The Field  is now closed until further notice so I never got to play a game. I did find that the 68-Special likes Valken New World paintballs. Fired a few hundred with no breaks in the marker. Still would prefer to play with a backup pistol. Still having issues with the TPX so I bought a Goblin Solo. Not much in fire power but it should discourage a rush on a empty 68-Special tank. Noticed a few errors in my blog I am working to update all pages including the parts list.

06/16/22     Getting ready to update

 I thought the Blogs were discontinued. I was in transition to update old pages, so some valuable pages had been pulled. As I no longer have as much time, I will restore some old pages and mark them pending update. This way the old information will still be available for access. Just note than pending update pages have information that is out of date, needs correction, clarification, relocation, or an all out expansion. Scrap the previous plans. My new goal is preservation of existing markers. I want to combine the misc chat to a timeline page and summarize. You're here for marker info, not my life status. Vintage markers are becoming less repairable because original specs are not recorded and consumables like springs and seals are no longer available. Lacking factory detailed specs, a little detective work is in order and 100 percent do-able. With that said, I will lay out the test procedures so others may duplicate and make parts for other markers. As for HPA conversion, Sorry, not here. I will continue to regard any HPA conversions as unreversible damage. 

06/26/22     Working Consecutively on 4 Blog Additions and relocating gear and tools to get back into PaintBall.

     Weight and heart issues shut down my paintball ambitions many years ago. Losing weight has improved my heart issues and woodsball is now a reality again. A local field has just changed hands 3 weeks ago and the new owner wants to focus on Rec ball. There is another field that caters to the speedball/ tournament crowd. To my knowledge there are no other fields in the area. Sadly, there is no Co2 service but I still have my own tank. I have purchased new test equipment to complete some overdue tests on the 68-Special. I am well into the more complete parts list and am building the pages "The Bling of Springs" talking about spring testing and ordering new OEM springs. Next is "Co2, Going with the flow, The theory and operation of the Tippmann 68-Special". This one is almost ready and will include an animated model full cycling sequence, critical seal identification, and service tips that I have not seen posted anywhere on the Web yet. A pictorial disassembly guide is almost complete as far as pictures go. The special project got scattered and was almost at the testing stage, I am trying trying to recollect all the parts to continue it.

      The Paint Ball Field is in Holt, Florida. They are located at the Element Training Complex and are operational. They are working around material shortages but should resolve those soon. I planned to go there this weekend but my mask and some gear are still missing.

07/10/22     Working on the 68-Special function diagram

     Turns out to be a little more tedious than expected. I have been originally working On a HP4400 computer with precise on screen pen abilities. Unfortunately I was limited to Windows XP and compatibility issues with new hardware made an upgrade necessary. Budget prevented a modern version so I settled on a custom build of a school student 14-fq1000 laptop and some additional hardware.

Elecom EX-G Left hand track ball mouse M-XT4DRBK with hard case (not shown)

XP-Pen with wireless bluetooth Deco Pro MW Tablet with a drawing area matching my computers screen size.

Computer is a custom built HP touch screen 14-fq1000 laptop with a 2.1GHz 5500U Ryzen 6 core processor and 16GB of ram and AMD Radeon graphics ordered during a student sales special.

Seems to be able to handle all my goals. I am fine tuning 2D images to start an animation sequence.

07/15/22     Modified the labels to work as link shortcuts to Blog Sections

Had some trouble locating my first Blog, so I set the Labels up as shortcuts as I can't change the order of blogs as they are presented. The animation is going on hold but I will use the work done for still frame pictures in the Co2 Blog about to be posted. I am also considering posting the other drafts with construction notes as they have been progressing slowly but may be of interest as is.

07/16/22     Blog Addition

Added a section on identifying the variants of the 68-Special. Cleaning up the new parts list for posting.

07/20/22     A Little Side Track

Just had a couple of markers I remember from the 90s become available. Though I always wanted a Mega-Z, I will settle on a Montneel Z1. These were inspired by the Tippmann 68-Special but improved on the Siphon advantage. Someone tried to run gas or HPA and forced the velocity adjuster beyond its limits. Damage looks repairable and this Siphon only marker should run like new. The other marker is a Crosman 3357 50cal marker revolver. 

This is a Montneel Rental Z1 made for CO2 siphon feed only. Like the 68-Special, it can't be properly converted.

 Why would you want to.

08/06/22     A Little More Than A Side Track

The Montneel had a little more damage than expected and I ordered two more for parts as the Seller had a bin of 33 and is selling as is at a decent price. Got one working but velocity is not satisfactory. The support data on the Montneel is abundant, somewhere between nada and squat. Found a readable postage stamp sized digital manual on VintageRex,com and about five threads on mcarterbrown.com mostly ending in the none available urathane cupseal. As I mentioned earlier, the urethane material has a 5 year shelf life. Some oils seem to extend the life as I have seen some way older that are still functioning but ALL my unused ones have turned to powder. The cup seal looks easy to build from scratch but I see the worn out mainspring as the primary obstacle. I am revising the manual exclusive to the Rental Z and starting the forensics that I have done on the 68-Special. I've lost my chrono so my current tests on the 68 Special are on hold.

 

05/10/25                   Still here, just an update.

     No Paintball although there is a field nearby. I have purchased new Chronys, a Beta and a Gamma with printer. I've located my thermal testers and other gear and hope to do some testing. Since lifes hold, I've restarted the 68 Special operation video. To date, I've seen only one SMG operation video and it was soooo wrong. I want to show the multistage operation of the dual poppet system. As far as the 68 Special in the real world, there is a vacuum of information a shortage of mainsprings. Of the limited information available, 90 percent is pure garbage.looking like this blog may be all that's left of Tippmann Sr.'s legacy. I have worked out the mainsprings technical information as I still have four new oldstock and the TIL from Tippmann explains the test procedure. One of my mainsprings turned out to be a perfect four pound spring so now I have the exact needed data to fabricate more. 

05/18/25                   Update

     Just ordered my first HPA tank and variable regulator. I planned on borrowing one but realized I want to do very controlled testing for accurate and repeatable results. On 68 Special searches I see the usual pushback challenging my air friction hypothesis. Not once have they included any meaningful test result. Some even saying their knowledge of chemistry is validation. Sorry, it's all about physics. Before I buy into the pushback and call NASA to challenge the need for heat shielding, it's time to take this hypothesis into theory and fact. On researching and planning this procedure out, I've stumbled upon adiabatic compression heat which can be a factor due to the nature of the valve operation. This is starting to be fun. I am still working on the animation phase of the dual poppit valve and realized that the parts travel is more limited than their physical capability. Still frame photos have been taken and will be superimposed for accurate animation travel depiction. I'm also checking out some spring companies to order new mainsprings using my measured data.

                                                                                                                                                      SML

Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

07/13/25                   Update

      Have received my tank and aired it up to 3K. The gauge on the regulator is too small to be useful so I purchased larger gauges for more accurate adjustments. I need to make a manifold with air chamber to make sure the regulator can keep up with marker draw. No time to work on Animation and Spring projects. I did go against my safety concerns and buy a HPA marker. I still will never buy an Electro and that will never change. I bought a new Tippmann TMC Elite and the Tippmann13/3000 HPA tank. I originally wanted a TCR as I am not a fan of the 98 design. Sadly, those are discontinued but this TMC had a good price. It also lacks the cheap feel of the 98. I found my local paintball field changed hands again and got rid of the air bunkers for regular play. This and the rules should send the clown guns to other fields. Pleased to say it is much like the paintball I remember and enjoy. They only supply HPA but my new mag fed TMC should fit right in and get my mind back on paintball again. My health still sucks but the field has a good layout of built barriers so I'm sure I can handle it. I may even get in a few games with the 68-Special.

                                                                                                                                                      SML

Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

 

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number ##
Title -This is the personal Blog Timeline
Revised - 07/13/25

Get those 3K Burst discs off your 1800 psi service rated CO2 tanks.

The 3K Walking Dead

It has become painfully obvious that I need to include a section on CO2 burst protection. Though the subject matter may be a little dry, the amount of inaccurate and sometimes dangerous misinformation is at this writing is more prevalent than the real information. Some of the misinformation has been around since the advent of paintball but the most dangerous information was born with the introduction of HPA. Those who have followed my postings will know that I am no fan of HPA because of it's inherent dangers magnified with the adverse nature of atrophy. Now that part of the paintball industry has created a serious new threat to the CO2 users. The threat I am referring to is the use of 3K burst discs on 1800 rated CO2 paintball tanks. This is not a malicious action by HPA proponents but the assortment of burst discs introduced have allowed bad decisions to take place. Tanks left in the sun pop the disc. Solution? Add a higher rated disc, we have them in stock. Wrong. But obviously this was the choice made and it seemed to work so well in has become standard. The problem is the vacuum of data that is available on pressurized vessel protection and it is this continued lack of information that has sustained dangerous practices.

In the paintball industry the pressures associated with the working mechanics of CO2 are considered high pressure. In the Gas industry CO2 is regarded as a low pressure gas. We need to understand that there are two industries involved on this topic and definitions are NOT transferable but often confused. The pressure level in the gas industry refers to the natural pressures of contained gas, The pressure level in the paint-ball industry refers to the final operating pressures of the marker itself. Most of the information we now have on paintball comes from the marketing industry, conversely the information in the gas industry is based on manufacturing and handling safety standards and hard science.

A common sense that something is seriously wrong came when I looked into the topic of volumetric testing or as the paint-ball industry calls it, Tank re-certification. Specifically important is the fact that tanks are tested in the following manner, The valve is removed, The tank is placed in a reinforced vat containing water. The Tank to be tested is filled with water and hydraulically pressurized to the to a specified pressure. Tank distortions are measured and if the tank survives the test, the tanks recovery dimensions are checked. All measurements are then compared with industry accepted standards and the tank is passed or failed. Hydraulic pressurization is used for safety reasons. Water cannot be compressed so that the static pressure has little stored energy should a catastrophic failure occur. Furthermore, the test is under water in a sturdy tank to protect testers from tank fragmentation on catastrophic tank failure. The hydro-test pressure for CO2 tanks is 5/3 the tanks stamped operating pressure. For a tank stamped 1800 this would be 3K or 3000 psi. Now on the flip side. Pneumatics have a high level of stored energy which on catastrophic tank failure is violently released adding substantial force to fragmentation. For this reason testing pneumatically is strictly forbidden in even when the tank is in a protective enclosure buffered with water. Now consider that if you have a 3K burst disc that is designed to burst at between (-)10 or (-)20% up the the listed burst pressure, You are potentially stress testing your tank with pneumatic pressure right next to your face. I hope that you can see the problem here. A safety device means just what it implies, Safety. How can a device that allows a tank to pressurize to levels used in stress testing, using a method (pneumatic) that is specifically forbidden for safety reasons be called a safety device. Plainly, it can't. The 5/3 burst disc safety standard is a sham. Unfortunately nobody questioned the practice and it has found its way to be the norm so now most paint-ball vendors push the 3K disc for your 1800 rated CO2 tanks. Being the norm does not make it right, or safe. Greatly adding to this confusion is a lack of uniformity in the identification of burst discs. Some list the tanks service pressure and some list the burst pressure. At no point should you use a disc from an unknown manufacturer or a manufacturer that will not release burst specs. If you are using a 1800 service rated tank then 3K should never be used in any case. At best your tank is exposed to 3000 psi which is hydrotesting pressure, at worst if the 3K is actually working pressure, your tank is exposed to between 3750 psi to 4285psi which will most likely burst the tank first resulting in severe injury or death.

The burst discs in the HPA market are designed for HPA regulators, not CO2 tanks. They are 1.8K, 3K, 5K, and 7.5K. Whether this is a service rating or a burst rating is never defined in writing. Stay away unless you treat them as service ratings. The worst case then is that a 1.8K unified disk could burst as low as 1440 psi if it's actually a lower quality burst rated disc. It is better to burst low than burst a tank.

So what is the correct burst disc for your tank? We need to go back to basics and look at the industrial standards on pressured vessel protection. The key information that we have is the tank stamp of 1800. This is the standard service pressure on the tank. This means that the tank is designed to handle this pressure regularly and repeatedly throughout its life. This implies a cap pressure to keep within the 1800 service guidelines. Like fuses in electronics there are different types of burst protections and their values vary a bit for the service level they are protecting. The protection we are using is usually a variation of the Sherwood burst protection 3/8-28 three hole vented plug over a flat disc sealed with a nylon washer now being replaced with a unified unit consisting of disc and vent plug. These fall under the flat disc style of protection for pressurized vessels. The sizing on this type of protection shows a maximum recommended operation ratio of 70% to 80% of the rupture discs marked burst pressure. This indicates that the proper disc protection falls between 2250 and 2571 PSI for a tank with a service rating of 1800. On removing the vent bolt on my vintage 20 oz luxfer cylinders Tippmann tank with original disc, I found a copper disc with M16 printed on it. 16 Mpa(Megapascals) is equal to 2320.6 PSI and this falls within required specs.

The absolute answer for what size burst disc to get for your tank stamped 1800 is 2250 psi being ideal and the absolute max being 2571 psi. Anything higher allows the tank to operate outside of the 1800 service rating and will shorten the life of the tank or could cause a catastrophic failure during use. Burst discs are currently designed to burst at -10%(high grade) or -20%(low grade) to +0% so a correct 2250 burst disc will burst at between 1980 psi (high grade) or 1760 psi (low grade) up to the maximum of 2250 psi, properly protecting an 1800 rated tank. Given the the choice I personally prefer the stand alone disc over the unified system. Manufacturers make the unified discs to the buyers specs so if a buyer wants unit marked 1.8 but use a 3k disc, that is how they are made. The customer cannot know unless they can see the markings on the disc itself and understand the code, which is not always possible. I have seen unified burst discs externally stamped 1.8 but the disc in the back was marked 18 on some and 30 on others. The only way to be certain you have the correct protection is when the disc comes with actual burst pressure documentation. This should also list the parameters as to be the(-)20% or the(-)10% accuracy.

I would like to add at this point that a tank should not be modified structurally. This weakens the tank and it must be condemned. This includes material removal such as machining, sanding, or polishing. It should also not be exposed to chemical alteration such as with acid washing for re-anodizing. Damage or high heat exposure also warrant that the tank be condemned. Contact the tank manufacturer for the specifics in these areas.

So what about the other CO2 tanks stamped with higher service ratings? Below is a list of CO2 tanks with proper protection. At no time should protection match or exceed its hydro-test pressure which is also listed.

A CO2 tank with a stamped 1800 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 2250 psi best to 2571 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 3000 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

A CO2 tank with a stamped 2266 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 3000 psi best to 3237 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 3777 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

A CO2 tank with a stamped 3000 service rating should have a burst disc that bursts at 3750 psi best to 4286 psi extreme/ It is hydro-tested at 5000 psi static with hydraulic pressure in a protective enclosure.

Remember that the stamped number on the burst disc could be either the tank service rating or actual burst rating. Only manufacturer specs can tell you which, if you can find them. Treat all unknowns as tank service ratings. Following a tanks service rating give you the full life of the tank. Placing a larger disc allows a tank to operate at a higher service rating than designed weakening the walls and potentially causing failure during operation. My solution to tank protection on hot days back then was laying a wet towel over the tank between games. Currently, I won't carry a spare tank on my back without first wrapping it it a damp Frog Tog and my burst disc are all within industrial service ratings.

                                                                                                                                                       SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 11
Title - Get those 3K Burst discs off your 1800 psi service rated CO2  tanks or The 3K Walking Dead
Revised - 05/21/2017

The Parts List.

PENDING UPDATE

Picture will be updated to show more variants and Siphon Tank parts as well as updated part details that I will update when possible. As for availability and price, these were last checked Oct of 2014.

Model 68-SPECIAL Parts List

This is the last revision of the 68-Special design. I included the original release as well. Too many parts to include conversions. The initial release was very much like the one shown in the manual. With improvements on the fly, and upgrades on older versions retaining the previous serial number, a definite tie of version to serial number is not possible. Despite all changes, if your marker has part #02 (Front Upper Receiver Casting), then you have a 68 Special regardless of what the nameplate says. Note that Milky Urethane o-rings have a 5 year shelf life and Buna o-rings have a 15 year shelf life. The 68-Special is over 20 years old. Change your o-rings...

This is a compiled parts list for the marker and the sources where they are available. I have not purchased from all these sites but their specs match the original parts. Due to lack of data, the o-ring hardness had to be guessed based on its use in the marker. I will note confirmation on ordered parts as I get them. Part #'s are not Tippmann #'s, Tippmann identified their parts by name only at the time. I randomly chose numbers and added the SP68 prefix as shown below. I also expanded and updated the owners manual tear-down drawing for the parts list. Measurements were pulled from limited documents and measuring of existing parts on my markers. Parts are identified as Stock match - should be the same as original, Equivalent replacement - some difference, usually material but should work, and Deluxe part - should out perform original part. I would also recommend Urethane o-rings over Buna but do remember that they have a 5 year shelf life, Buna have a 15 year shelf life, great for emergency spares. Listed pricing does not include shipping and was current as of 04/2013. Prices from PB sports current as of 06/08/2013. I cannot guarantee fit as Markers varied through construction and/or upgrades as well as sellers description accuracy  and specs can change. All effort has been taken shy of purchasing for accuracy. This page will be updated as information is gathered or corrected. This page is still not complete.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

*** BIG NEWS ***

 http://www.baccipaintball.com 

Is selling used and new parts for the 68-Special.
They will not be listed below as part availability, condition, and price varies with each part. Be sure to read all descriptions as some parts have damage listed. Order placed 08/17/2013. Received. Highly recommend this source. Has some New old-stock as well.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

68SP01 - Tippmann ID: Lower Receiver Casting 

   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only.

68SP01B - Tippmann ID: Lower Receiver Casting (Early style with no milling for part 04)

   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only.

68SP02 - Tippmann ID: Front upper Receiver Casting
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only.

68SP03 - Tippmann ID: Receiver Bolts [2 total]
   Socket Button Head Receiver retaining bolts 5/16"-24 x 3/4" [2 total]  (Note that originals have been ground shorter by 1/16" to avoid hitting front bolt.)
   Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/  (read warning)
   Warning - These must be ground shorter by 1/16" to avoid hitting and damaging front bolt.
   Stock match (read warning)
   Socket button head, Alloy steel black oil finish, 5/16"-24 x 3/4" Bolt Depot Product #:13227       $0.18 ea
   Deluxe Stainless (read warning)
   Socket button head, Stainless steel 18-8, 5/16"-24 x 3/4" Bolt Depot Product # 5730                 $0.76 ea

68SP04 - Tippmann ID: Gun Valve Spacer
   Tippmann part : Actually the valve retainer plate,
   Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Valve Spacer $4.95)  Note: I puchased one
   and it would not fit, it was too small, may be filed.
   Specs pending for home fabrication

68SP05 - Tippmann ID: End Cap Srew [1 total]
    Set screw, #10-32 x 3/16" Original appears to be plain steel or zinc plated steel.
    Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
    Equivalent Replacement
    Set screw, Allen, Cup point, Alloy steel black oil finish, #10-32 x 3/16" Product # 8486       $0.07 ea
    Deluxe Stainless
    Set screws, Allen, Cup point, Stainless steel 18-8, #10-32 x 3/16" Bolt Depot Product #: 7019  $0.10 ea
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special End Cap Screw $0.95)

68SP06 - Tippmann ID: Receiver Tube with Safety
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP06 - Tippmann ID: Receiver Tube (Early style on markers with or without part 04, No Safety)
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP07 - Tippmann ID: End Cap
   Tippmann part : I am sure this is a hydraulic part and there is a match or an equivalent, searching.
   Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special End Cap $14.95)

68SP08 - Tippmann ID: Receiver Roll Pins [3 total]
   Steel roll pins 1/8 x 3/4"
   Part is Available from http://www.fastenermart.com/
   Stock match
   PN116-0192   1/8 x 3/4"  Spring Pin, Plain Finish (no rust protection),   $3.83 pkg/100 pcs
   Deluxe Stainless
   PN166-4292   1/8 x 3/4"  Spring Pin, Stainless Steel,   $6.72   pkg/100 pcs

68SP09 -  Tippmann ID: Rear Bolt
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP10 -  Tippmann ID: Rear Bolt O-Ring
   AS568A Dash No. -020,   7/8" x 1 x 1/16" Black Buna (Milky urethane from factory) Duro 90
   Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
   Stock Match
   020 U90 Urethane O-ring model U90020   $1.40 ea  Recommended
   020 B90 Buna-N Nitrile O-ring Model B90020   $0.15 ea

68SP11 -  Tippmann ID: Bolt Handle
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only
   Specs pending for home fabrication

68SP12 -  Tippmann ID: Bolt Handle O-Ring
   AS568A Dash No. -011,  5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16" - Black Buna Duro 70
   Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
   Stock Match
   011 B70 Buna-N 70 O-ring Model B70011   $0.06 ea

68SP13 -  Tippmann ID: Bolt Spring
   Tippmann part : The Main spring is 4 lbs only but early models had a 2.5 lb spring. Summer and winter tensions refer to the SMG-60 line only. Read TIL report, there is
   critical data on spring safety.
   Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Main Spring $3.95)  Note: I puchased one
   and it would not fit, not for the 68-Special, probably for the 98-custom.
   Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.

68SP14  -  Tippmann ID: Valve Body
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only. Note original SMG models are not compatible.
   Machining required to adapt. Specs pending.

68SP14B  -  Tippmann ID: Valve Body (Early style not milled for part 04, retained with part 08)
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only.

68SP15  -  Tippmann ID: Bolt Spring Rod
    Tippmann part : Main Spring Stabilizing Rod
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Bolt Spring Rod  $5.95)  Note: I puchased 
    one and it would work for the 68-Special.

68SP16  -  Tippmann ID: Front Bolt
    Tippmann part : Moulded plastic part made only for the 68-Special
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Front Bolt $9.95)

68SP17  -  Tippmann ID: Bolt Linkage Arm
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only
   Specs pending for home fabrication

68SP18   -  Tippmann ID: Ball Latch
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP19   -  Tippmann ID: Front Bolt O-Ring

   This one has been a challenge. Some kits had Duro90 and some Duro70. To reduce the friction damage from sand and dirt, I am changing this to the softer Duro 70.
   AS568A Dash No. -015,  9/16" x 11/16" x 1/16" Black Buna Duro 70
   Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
   Stock Match
   015 U70 Urethane O-ring Model: U70015 $1.15 ea (Factory)
   015 B70 Buna-N 70 O-ring Model B70015   $0.15 ea

68SP20   -  Tippmann ID: Ball Latch Spring
   Tippmann part : Light Spring
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Ball Latch Spring $1.95)
   Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.

68SP21   -  Tippmann ID: Ball latch Roll Pin [2 total]
   Steel roll pins 3/32 x 3/4" [2 total]
   Part is Available from http://www.fastenermart.com/
   Stock Match
   PN146-9132   3/32 x 3/4"  Spring Pin, Plain Finish (no rust protection),   $3.12     pkg/100pcs
   Stainless not available in this size and length.

68SP22 - Tippmann ID: Power Tube & Bushing
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP22B - Tippmann ID: Power Tube & Bushing (Early style with steel pin across center)
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP23 - Tippmann ID: Power Tube Bushing O-Ring
    AS568A Dash No. -116,  3/4" x 15/16" x 3/32" - Black Buna Duro 70
    Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
    Stock Match
    116 B70 Buna-N 70 O-ring Model: B70116 $0.08 ea                                      

 
68SP24 - Tippmann ID: Velocity Adjuster Screw
   Velocity Adjustment Screw Late generation original appears to be plain zinc plated steel and early generation black oil finish, both with one 3/16" spot of red threadlock compound, 1/8" from cup (inside)
   Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
   Equivalent Replacement
   Set screws,Allen,Cup point,Alloy steel black oil finish,#10-32 x 1/2" Bolt Depot Product #: 8491 $0.08ea
   Deluxe Stainless
   Set screws, Allen, Cup point, Stainless steel 18-8, #10-32 x 1/2" Bolt Depot Product #: 7023   $0.09 ea

68SP25 - Tippmann ID: Valve O-Ring
   AS568A Dash No. -020,  7/8" x 1" x 1/16" - Black Buna (Milky urethane from factory) Duro 90
   Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
   Stock Match
   020 B90 Buna-N Nitrile O-ring Model: B90020 $0.15 ea
   020 U90 Urethane O-ring Model: U90020 $1.40 ea Recommended

68SP26 - Tippmann ID: Valve Spring
    Appears to be a stainless heavy spring
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Valve Spring $1.95)
    Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.

68SP27 - Tippmann ID: Valve Seats [2 total]
     Tippmann part : Brass
     Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Valve Seat $9.95) or in (Tippmann 68
      Special Valve Rebuild Kit $29.95)

68SP28 - Tippmann ID: Valve Plungers [ 2 total]
    Tippmann part : Brass and Stainless
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Valve Plunger $9.95) or in (Tippmann 68
    Special Valve Rebuild Kit $29.95)

68SP29 - Tippmann ID: Valve Snap Ring [2 total]
    Standard fastener : specs and alternate source pending
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Valve Rebuild Kit $29.95)

68SP30 - Tippmann ID: Valve "Seat" O-Rings [2 total]
   AS568A Dash No. -012,  3/8" x 1/2" x 1/16" - Factory Urethane Duro 70 (Though shown in TIL documents as Black Buna, I verified that later models have factory Urethane. Better for liquid CO2 contact.)
   Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
   Stock match
    012 U70 Urethane O-ring Model: U70012 $0.41 ea Recommended
    012 B70 Buna-N 70 O-ring Model: B70012 $0.06 ea

68SP31 - Tippmann ID: Valve Elbow
    Micro plumbing part :  Searching for source

68SP32 - Tippmann ID: Valve Elbow "Flathead" Furrow
    Micro plumbing part : Searching for source
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit $11.95)

68SP33 - Tippmann ID: Internal Gas Line Tubing
Nylotube Nylon -12 part # 233 0216 Semi-rigid Grade: ID 0.075", OD 0.125", Wall .025", WORKING
PSI AT 70°F 1000 PSI, BURST PSI AT 70°F 3000 PSI, BEND RADIUS 0.25", Shore Hardness  D ±5 72, Cold Impact Resistance -40°F, Max. Operating Temp. 212°F
Sold as 500' spool
New Age Industries
145 James Way
Southampton, PA 18966
www.newageindustries.com
Careful when buying microline as most are actually over 1/8" outside diameter. The flexible equivalent has too low of a burst rating.
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit $11.95)

68SP34 - Tippmann ID: Gas Line Inserts [2 total]
    Micro plumbing part : Searching for source
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit $11.95)

68SP35 - Tippmann ID: Gas Line Spring
    Tippmann part : Light spring to reinforce and protect gas tube.
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit $11.95)
    Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.

68SP36 - Tippmann ID: Gas Line "Barrel" Furrow
    Micro plumbing part : Searching for source
    Listed as still available at PB sports. In (Tippmann 68 Special Gas Line Kit $11.95)

68SP37 - Tippmann ID: Hex Nut for Gun Valve Elbow
   Micro plumbing part :

68SP38 - Tippmann ID: Rear Gas Line Fitting (silver)
    Tippmann part :
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Rear Gas Line Fitting $3.95)

68SP39 - Tippmann ID: Trigger (Semi-Auto)
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP40 - Tippmann ID: Trigger Spring
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only
   Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.

68SP41 - Tippmann ID: Sear
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP42 - Tippmann ID: Sear Spring
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only
   Replacements may be available soon, pending specs details to a manufacturer.


68SP43 - Tippmann ID: Barrel Screw [1 total]
   Socket cap, Alloy steel black oil finish, 1/4"-20 x 3/4"
   Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
   Stock match
   Socket cap, Alloy steel black oil finish, 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Bolt Depot Product #:   5026   $0.11 each
   Deluxe Stainless
   Socket cap, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Bolt Depot Product #: 4883   $0.18 each
 
68SP44 - Tippmann ID: Ammo Box & Pistol Grip Screw [2 total] 1/4" x 7/8"
   Socket cap, Alloy steel black oil finish, 1/4"-20 x 7/8"
   Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
   Stock match
   Socket cap, Alloy steel black oil finish, 1/4"-20 x 7/8" Bolt Depot Product #:   8029   $0.11 each
   Deluxe Stainless
   Socket cap, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/4"-20 x 7/8" Bolt Depot Product #: 5513   $0.20 each

68SP45 - Tippmann ID: 11" Standard Barrel Stock, 16" Sniper Barrel Available
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only, Both were aluminum with no porting or rifling. They are
   non-threaded and held by the pinch bolt. Compatible with first generation SL 68 markers.
   Pictures and specs pending.

68SP46 - Tippmann ID: Front Grip
   Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP47 - Tippmann ID: Rear Hand Grip
    Lonestar Compartment Grip : Baccipaintball has new old-stock for $15.00 each

68SP48 - Tippmann ID: Cylinder pin Valve seal O-Ring
    AS568A Dash No. -015,  9/16" x 11/16" x 1/16" White Teflon (Milky urethane from factory) Duro 90
    Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
    Stock match
     015 U90 Urethane O-ring Model: U90015 $0.99 ea
     015T PTFE White Teflon O-ring Model: TEF015 $0.96 ea    (Place in hot water prior to placement
     to reduce deformation and cuts.)

68SP49 - Tippmann ID: 7 oz Siphon Tank Stock, 20 oz Siphon Tank Available and recommended
    Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only (Unless damaged, the 7 oz tanks do not require
    hydro-testing. The 20 oz does require testing every 5 years. Inspect and/or repair siphon tubes at this
    time.)
Do you have a siphon tank?  Hold the tank near the valve and swing it back and forth like a bell. If you hear something swinging and clanking inside, its a siphon tank. If it sounds like something rolling around, then the weight or tube is loose and must be repaired before use. Siphon tanks should be clearly marked with the word "SIPHON TANK". Using a siphon tank on a non-siphon marker can damage or destroy the marker.
    Replacement Siphon tanks can be built. Watch for my future Blog. (Read Warning)
    Warning - Modifications to CO2 tanks Should be completed by a Certified Airsmith for Safety
    and Liability reasons. Improper valve assembly can fail or come apart creating life threatening conditions.

68SP50 - Tippmann ID: Butt Stock for 7 oz Cylinders
    Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP51 - Tippmann ID: NONE
    Butt Stock Round Head Bolt 10-32 x 1/2" [2 total]
    Tank Buttstock Pinch Machine Screws,  #10-32 x 1/2"   The stock screws may be alloy steel black oil
    finished or blued steel. [2 total]
    Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
    Equivalent Replacement  (These must painted black to match.)
    Machine screws,Slotted round head, Zinc plated steel,#10-32 x 1/2" Bolt Depot Product# 1762 $0.05ea
    Deluxe
    Silicon Bronze Tank Buttstock Pinch Machine Screw, I chose these over stainless, as stainless to stainless
    contact tends to gaul. [2 total]
    Slotted round head, Silicon bronze, #10-32 x 1/2"   Bolt Depot Product #: 3439   $0.40 each

68SP52 - Tippmann ID: NONE
    Butt Stock Hex Nut 10-32 [2 total]
    Part is Available from http://www.boltdepot.com/
    Equivalent Replacement  (These must painted black to match.)
    Tank Buttstock Pinch Machine Nut, The stock nuts may be the alloy steel black oil finish or blued steel.
    These must be painted black to match. [2 total]
    Hex machine screw nuts, Zinc plated steel, #10-32 Bolt Depot Product #: 2646    $0.05 each
    Deluxe
    Silicon Bronze Tank Buttstock Pinch Machine Nut, I chose these over stainless, as stainless to stainless
    contact tends to gall. [2 total]
    Hex machine screw nuts, Silicon bronze, #10-32    Bolt Depot Product #: 3479    $0.24 each

68SP53 - Tippmann ID: Owners Manual (Not Shown on Drawing)
    Tippmann part : Printed manual (Original)
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Manual $6.95)

68SP54 - Tippmann ID: O-ring Kit (Not Shown on Drawing)
    O-ring replacement kit. Purchased one from PB sports and it looks new and good. Installed the o-rings         using Tippmann certified oil and grease, worked perfectly.
    Listed as still available at PB sports. (Tippmann 68 Special Oring Kit $10.95)

68SP55 - Tippmann ID: NONE
    Sling (Not Shown on Drawing)
    Nylon Webbing : Specs pending

68SP56 - Tippmann ID: NONE
    Sling Buckles (Not Shown on Drawing)
    Generic part : Specs pending

68SP57 - Tippmann ID: Tank fill Coupling (Not Shown on Drawing)
    Plumbing part : Specs pending

68SP58 - Tippmann ID: Tank fill Coupling Seal (Not Shown on Drawing)
     Nitrile or Buna Flat Washer : Specs pending

68SP59 - Tippmann ID: NONE
    68 Special Iron-on Patch (Upper right on Drawing)
    Tippmann part : Replacement: parts salvage only

68SP60 - Tippmann ID: Tank Rupture Disc O-rings [4 Total per tank] (Not Shown on Drawing)
    AS568A Dash No. -008,  3/16" x 5/16" x 1/16" - Black Buna Duro 70
    Part is Available from http://www.theoringstore.com/
    Stock match
    008 B70 Buna-N 70 O-ring Model: B70008 $0.06 ea

Note on O-rings: O-rings hardness is affected by temperature. The colder it is, the harder the material. For example- On the rear bolt seal Duro 90 would be optimal. Shore "A" scale is used on these o-rings. For use in colder climate, softer o-rings may be in order. A temperature vs hardness scale may helpful when selecting. There may likewise be an optimal hardness for Summer and Winter or Northern and Southern states. Factory levels are good starting points but environmental conditions will be the deciding factor. The usage chart in the TIL may be compared to the hardness characteristic chart to establish optimum selection. The up side is if you buy direct you can get the BEST for a fraction of the price for the mystery ring kits others are selling. Also if a vendor changes the Duro hardness between orders, You may not be told. This makes marker firing discrepancies and leaks hard to track and remedy.
                                                                                                                                                       SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 07
Title - The Parts List.
Revised - 06/18/22

68 Special Owners Manual

The Model 68-Special Operator's Manual

Sorry for the scan quality. I will post cleaner copies when I figure out the editor. If an image shows blank then try reloading this page. There are a few .pdf copies available on the web if you search. I am reluctant to link at this time due to issues I have with some of the other data posted on the sites. Maybe after I finished my blog and calmed down.

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I am currently gathering together relevant CO2 technical documents to show the actual physics involved with this marker. The actual formula calculations will not be possible due to environmental and marker variables, but the concepts can be clarified. As of now I have not found a single web site that doesn't use "Dry CO2" data when referring to the operation of the 68 Special. I have even found a few that make me say WTF?  It's obvious they have only used HPA electronic markers. 

        I don't like to be a cynic but we'll see how popular HPA becomes when atrophy begins showing itself on aging HPA systems. Considering that an old tire over inflated to 70 psi can kill you. Imagine the fun to be had with 3 to 4.5 thousand psi. Darwin awards are in the works for the ones that say " Get the compressor, Let's see if it still works!"

Ok, I vented, I feel much better now....

                                                                                                                                                         SML
Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 05
Title - The Model 68-Special Operator's Manual
Revised - 08/22/13

TIL-SMGSPG

TECHNICAL INFORMATION LETTER - SMGSPG (121398)

Tippmann SMG Series, Bolt Main Springs

REVISION C - DESTROY ALL OTHER COPIES

OBSERVED PROBLEM: Pellet velocities other than stated for standard and high pressure bolt main springs. Varying velocities from similar main springs. Problem in identification of springs. Adjustment of gun velocities.

SOURCE OR CAUSE: Different steels, coil diameters, wire sizes, coil spacing, spring length, heat treatment and tensile strength,singly or in combination, will give different spring energies. The supplier's changing of a machine and/or machine operator between orders may also have an effect on each different lot of springs. A long spring may well be of a lower power than a short one.

In measuring the static energies of a particular set of springs in both standard and high pressure, we found that they varied from 2 1/2 to 3 pounds added energy in the standard, and 3 1/4 to 4 1/4 pounds in the high pressure. The averages were 2 3/4 pounds and 3 3/4 pounds. The maximum difference's between different lots of the same type were as much as thirty-five percent!

REPAIR OR PROBLEM REDUCTION: Simple measuring of the spring length or its superficial color will have no bearing on the spring energy as the factory can only specify an energy at a certain compression length to the supplier and take what they get. Springs normally cannot be identified by simple means.

The uncompressed length of the springs ranges from 180mm to 200mm. At the rest, or un-cocked bolt position, the spring is compressed to 137mm. In the armed, or cocked bolt position the spring is further compressed 50mm more to 87mm. The difference in measurement is not kinetic energy. When the bolt hits the gun valve body, it has gained a lot more force. It is however, sufficient for our purposes.

To measure yours, obtain a simple kitchen or mail scale which has a range of ten pounds or more. Slide the spring over a 1/8" rod of nine inches or more in length. If possible, thread a 6X32 nut on the end to keep the spring from forcing off the end and then bending upon release. Slide a 1/8" washer over the rod on top of the spring the a larger washer or spacer to gain grip. Place the nut end of the rod in the center of the scale top and with a metric ruler, compress the spring to 137mm. Read the weight from the scale. Continue compressing to 87mm and read the scale weight again. Subtract the 137mm reading from the 87mm reading. This is the static or added energy of the spring.

The above is all academic though. All guns are different. The prime rule in both internal and external ballistics is, "You can engineer the hell out of a weapons system, but you never know what it will do until after you pull the trigger." The moral is simple. Clean your gun, lube it, then take it out to your field's chronograph. That is the only way you will know what velocity that spring will give in that gun.

Before chronographing, wait until after the temperature of the gun, CO2 cylinder and paint have stabilized. Normalize your gas system with three shots pointed up in the air, and then shoot three round sequences holding the barrel level without pointing it down until done.Keep the muzzle well to the rear of the light cell to prevent falsing. Keep in mind that changes in the ambient temperature, and hence the CO2 pressure will vary velocities considerably. Guns equipped with an All Weather Tank will record higher velocities with the same spring. You should make a set of springs cut to different lengths.

To adjust spring energies, cut off several coils at a time and retest. Use nippers, not your side cutters if you value them. Do not attempt to increase the tension by stretching the spring. You will be torquing the wire coils beyond design specs and weakening them.  The length will recede in time and the spring will have less energy than it started with. If you want more tension, order one or more high pressure springs and chronograph them to get the tension you desire. USE ONLY FACTORY SPRINGS! Spring design is very intricate. One that, "looks about right", may eventually damage the gun valve internals, receiver, or end cap threads. Cutting more than 10% of  spring length may give erratic velocities. High pressure springs cannot be cut down far enough to equal a low pressure one.

To verify one claim that adding spring coils to a regular spring increased velocity, we conducted our own experiments. We found that very little extra spring can be added as there is only a small amount of available room. The additional spring coils crowding into this space resulted in a binding and over-compression of the springs, AND A NET LOSS OF ENERGY OF APPROXIMATELY 10%! Therefore, only a spring DESIGNED with a certain amount of energy, at a certain compression will work in the SMG Series of guns.

RELATED INFORMATION: All SMG-68's were equipped with the standard 2.5 lb. spring until late 1988. All are now equipped with the 4.0 lb. high pressure spring. Some guns sneaked thru with 5.0 lb. winter springs. These yield 400 fps in summer and are dangerous. SMG-68's and Special's normally only use a standard pressure spring. Springs must be kept very clean and well lubed, as they will wear from friction and lose energy over a period of time. See also TIL-GENVEL, TIL-SPCVEA, TIL-SMGCLN and TIL-SMGOIL.

This document is retyped from a low quality copy that was hard to read. I don't type but the information is so important that it had to be done. Note that because the 68s are liquid fed, seasonal spring changes are not needed.                                                            SML


Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 04
Title - TIL-SMGSPG
Revised - 10/18/14

TIL-GENORID

INSTRUCTION SHEET - GENORID (030891)

Tippman O-Ring Identification and Use

REVISION B - DESTROY ALL OTHER COPIES

DISCUSSION: User trouble in identifying o-rings purchased in kits for Tippmanns Pneumatic's paintball guns, and in determining when to replace them or where to use them. See also TIL-SMGSEAL AND TIL-SMGOIL. Pneumatic Ordnance o-ring kits are total kits, comprising ALL the o-rings in the guns concerned. Certain kits have extra tank valve o-rings. Some o-rings are used less often than other's or only in specific situations. All are also sold separately or in packages of two.

     One o-ring can have different uses in the same gun and unrelated uses in other models. It is therefore difficult to name them separately. They are identified by size, and are measured by their internal diameter and cross section thickness. The outer diameter is rarely used but is given here for ease of identification. The color, material, particular gun, service and probable usage rate are also listed for consumer information.

     Whenever an o-ring is suspect, replace it without hesitation. Never attempt to salvage one, or try to determine if it is usable by eye or touch. These methods are unreliable and problem prone. Junk it for the slightest reason. Noeprene o-rings should not be used in conjunction with petroleum based oils or in high pressure conditions unless well restrained. Urethane tolerates oils and high pressure better but may  be more expensive. Buna resists chemical attack very well, and is more cost effective than urethane. Teflon should not be used in sliding applications. Viton strikes a balance between rough service, attack and absorption. Liquid operation and using siphon cylinders may cause gas and gun valve seals to erode and leak sooner.

7/8" x 1" x 1/16" - Black Buna (Milky urethane from factory)
   SMG60 1st Gen, SMG60 2nd Gen, SMG-68 and 68 Special - Used as main or rear bolt seal, and as gun valve ring seal. Low pressure and only under fire. High movement on bolt, moderate movement on gun valve ring, dirty environment. Moderate usage, replace at the beginning of season and more often if regular use or in dusty conditions. Set of two.

3/4" x 15/16" x 3/32" - Black Buna
   68 Special Only - Used as power tube face seal. Low pressure and under fire. No movement, clean environment. Zero to low usage, replace only if lost or damaged. One o-ring.

5/8" x 3/4" x 1/16" - Black Buna
   SMG60 1st Gen Only - Used as gun valve body seal. High and constant pressure. Moderate movement, clean environment. Moderate usage, replace at beginning of season, when in heavy use or whenever the gun valve is removed. Set of two.

9/16" x 11/16" x 1/16" White Teflon (Milky urethane from factory)
   SMG60 1st Gen, SMG60 2nd Gen, SMG68, 68 Special and SL68 - Used as cylinder pin valve seal. High and constant pressure. Low movement but dirty environment and rough service. High usage if not kept clean and greased, or if cylinder is not inserted vertically. Clean, inspect and re-grease whenever cylinder is refilled. Replace instantly if the slightest imperfection is seen. Do not use black neoprene or buna. One o-ring, spares recommended.

9/16" x 11/16" x 1/16" - Black Buna
   68 Special - Used as front bolt breech seal. Low pressure and only under fire. Moderate movement, dirty environment. Moderate usage, replace each season, more often if in regular use or in dusty conditions. One o-ring.
   SL68 II - Used as receiver end cap seal. High and constant pressure. Low movement, but dirty environment and rough service. High usage if not kept clean and greased. One o-ring, spares recommended.
1/2" x 11/16" x 3/32" - Black Buna (Milky Urethane from factory)
   SL68 Only - Used as bolt breech seal. Low pressure area and only when under fire. Moderate movement, dirty environment. Low usage, replace each season or if no compression is felt on closing bolt. One o-ring.

7/16" x 5/8" x 3/32" - Brown Viton (black neoprene or buna from factory)
   CAM Constant Air Magnum Steel 4.5 and 9 Ounce CO2 Cylinders - Used for pin valve end seal. High and constant pressure. No movement, but dirty environment and rough service. High usage if not glued in with gasket cement. Buna or urethane o-rings will pop out easily from CO2 absorption and expansion on depressurization. Replace as necessary from loss or damage. Do not peen in, keep greased. One o-ring.

3/8" x 1/2" x 1/16" - Black Buna (Milky Urethane from factory for SL68 only)
   SMG60 1st Gen, SMG60 2nd Gen, SMG68 and 68 Special - Used for gun valve plunger cup seals (gun valve plunger collars or seats). High and constant pressure area. no movement, clean environment. Low usage, replace if gun valve is disassembled or leaking. Easily damaged on removal of plunger. Do not mistake for plunger seal leakage. Set of two.
   SL68 - Used for gas valve body seal. High and constant pressure area. Low movement, clean environment. Low usage on SL II, high on 1st gen. SL. Easily damaged on 1st gen SL68 valve removal. Do not mistake for valve seal leakage. One o-ring on 1st gen., two on SL68 II.

5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16" - Black Buna
   68 Special Only - Used for retaining bolt link to bolt handle and front bolt arm. No pressure. Low usage, replace as necessary or if visibly damaged or worn. Set of two.

3/16" x 5/16" x 1/16" - Black Buna
   SMG 1st Gen - Used for gas line elbow and gun valve screw (rear sight) seals. High and constant pressure. No movement, dirty environment. Low usage, replace if damaged or slow leaks develop. Set of three.
   SMG60 2nd Gen, SMG68 and 68 Special - Used as packing for rear gas tube ferrule compression screw protrusion adjustment. High and constant pressure. No movement, clean environment. Zero to low usage, replace equal number when gas tube is replaced, add or remove as necessary to change protrusion of screw. One to three may be needed.
   Tippmann Pneumatic's 3.5, 7 and 20 Ounce CO2 Cylinders - Used as pin valve rupture disk seal. High and constant pressure. No movement. clean environment. Low usage, replace whenever rupture disk is replaced. One o-ring.

5/32" x 7/32" x 1/32" - Black Buna
   SMG60 1st Gen Only - Used for gas line screw seals. High and constant pressure. No movement, clean environment. Low usage, not available except when purchasing the entire gas line assembly. Use 3/16" x 1/4" x 1/32" o-rings with slight bevel on the edge of the screw hole, or automotive form-a-gasket compounds.


This document is retyped from a low quality copy that was hard to read. I don't type but the information is so important that it had to be done.                                                             SML


Blogger.com user StrayBlackCatsMeow

Address http://68-special.blogspot.com/
Blog "The 68-Special from Tippmann Pneumatics Inc"
Blog Reference page number 03
Title - TIL-GENORID
Revised - 08/22/13